old climbs and new climbs, all helping to keep me busy

my god, weather is good here in the front range.  combine these gorgeous days with recent success and clipping some anchors, and my level of psych is through the roof!  i have been so motivated lately to be outside and climbing on real rock that i can hardly contain myself.  the winter training appears to be paying off, i just need to let this momentum continue to carry me.

after tackling ‘public enemy’, i have been on the hunt for a new project.  i didn’t have to venture far as a line named ‘sweet inspirations’ (13c) has caught my eye, and it sits just left of ‘public enemy’.  ‘sweet inspirations’ climbs the first 2/3 of another classic line, ‘sonic youth’, then follows a line of slot crimps and slopers that traverses right, ending with the final 2 1/2 bolts of ‘public enemy’.  working on this one has been an interesting process, as i sent ‘sonic youth’ 3 1/2 years ago.  i forgot how pumpy the beginning of ‘sonic’ is, and it took me a bit to re-work all the moves.  the traverse has some difficult moves, but they unlocked nicely.  by my last burn, i was linking deep into the traverse, so hopefully this one will be dispatched with quickly.

i also revisited an old project at the ‘sex cave’ called ‘stone cold head’ (13b).  this climb is short, powerful and bouldery.  every time i got on this climb in the past, i could do all the moves, but it never seemed too plausible to actually link it and send.  this time around, the moves felt easier than they ever had in the past.  like i said, the training is yielding results.  my friend matt found a clutch kneebar after the initial boulder problem, allowing you to rest and recover before tackling more hard climbing.  all this yielded a high point, and a send is imminent.  we went up there with matt’s friend scott clark, a very talented photographer, and he was able to get some good shots.  i look forward to working with him in the future.  here is one photo from the day:

working into the last difficult bit on 'stone cold head' (13b)
photo copyright scott clark

i hope everyone is getting out there and enjoying this great weather while it’s here!  happy spring!!!!